On That Note: What Do Orris Fragrances Really Smell Like?

Every fragrance description contains a list of notes, which is meant to give an idea of what a scent should smell like.

We are generally familiar with common culinary notes like marshmallow, vanilla and grapefruit, and know how they should smell. The tricky part is when a description contains more atypical notes like oakmoss, benzoin and labdanum.

In this series, we’re breaking down specific notes so you can gain a better understanding of your fragrance, all from behind a screen.

What is Orris?

One of the most coveted raw ingredients in perfumery, orris is also one of the most misunderstood. 

While it’s often associated with soft, powdery florals, orris is far more versatile than its reputation suggests. It adds depth, warmth, and an almost suede-like texture to a fragrance, often bridging the gap between floral and woody notes.

You may be more familiar with orris’ other name: iris. However, in perfumery, the scent isn’t extracted from the iris flower itself but rather from its rhizome (root). This process is slow and meticulous—after being harvested, the rhizomes must dry and age for several years before they can be distilled.

But this lengthy maturation process is what intensifies orris’ scent, making it one of the most luxurious and expensive ingredients in fragrance.

Orris in Perfumery

Orris has earned itself an outdated reputation, one that keeps it reminiscent of vintage face powder and violet-like florals.

Depending on how it’s used, orris can actually take on a wide range of nuances.

It can also be creamy and buttery due to the natural presence of irones, earthy and grounding when paired with certain woods, or rooty and carrot-like, bridging floral and woody notes.

It’s this chameleon-like nature that makes orris a favorite among perfumers, allowing it to play a starring role in powdery florals or add an unexpected depth to woody and ambery fragrances.